Eerie, glowing red face masks used for skin care are dominating social media feeds right now. But the treatment known as red light therapy isn’t just another TikTok trend. Dermatologists and estheticians have been using this non-invasive light treatment to address common skin conditions since the early 2000s.
Also known as photomodulation, red light therapy works by transmitting specific wavelengths (630-670 nanometers) that deeply penetrate the skin, stimulating tissue repair and boosting elasticity.
Red light can be transmitted through a variety of devices, from the ubiquitous at-home face masks to targeted wands and full-body panels used in clinical settings and spas.
Science behind the trend
Using sunbathing to boost skin healing is a practice dating back to ancient cultures. Modern-day red light therapy traces its roots to the 1960s, when a Hungarian physician discovered that low-level ruby laser light helped heal wounds in laboratory mice. NASA pioneered contemporary red light therapy research after astronauts discovered its therapeutic benefits for muscle recovery and cellular repair while using the lights to grow plants in space.
Now FDA-cleared for medical and cosmetic uses, red light wavelengths are effective because the treatment targets mitochondria, which produce cellular energy to accelerate healing and collagen production.
“This process is what helps you heal faster and better after any type of treatment, whether that’s a skin laser or a face lift,” said Diane Alexander, MD, FACS, founder of ARTISAN in Atlanta, and member surgeon at Olympus Cosmetic Group. Alexander recently used daily red light therapy to recover from a face lift.
“Everybody wants to look better and have these incredible procedures, but nobody wants to walk around with a red, peeling face, even if it’s just from a laser or routine facial,” she continued.
Those therapeutic benefits are why Alexander and her team often pair red light therapy with laser treatments, microneedling, and facials to speed up post-procedure healing. Red light is also ideal as a stand-alone treatment for skin issues like rosacea and psoriasis, as it “helps tone down the inflammation and redness of the skin, while improving collagen and elasticity,” said Alexander.
Licensed esthetician Marisa Overton, owner of Marisa Overton Skin Care, incorporates red light therapy into many of her clients’ facials because of its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging benefits.
“The wavelengths help soothe skin while also repairing damaged cells,” she said, making red light a popular choice for treating acne, dark spots, and other common skin issues.
Red light therapy at home
Portable red light therapy, including those influencer-beloved face masks, can provide many of the same benefits as medical-grade treatments, Alexander added.
When choosing an at-home device, Overton suggests purchasing one with multiple wavelengths for optimal results. Her preferred maker is LightStim, an FDA-cleared professional-grade brand that manufactures red light therapy products ranging from skincare wands and wearable recovery bands to the same tabletop panels she uses for client facials and treatments.
The 411 on red light therapy
“Ideally, use a light therapy device over hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, hydrating masks, moisturizers, and sheer sheet masks, as the wavelengths will push those ingredients deeper into the skin for the cells to use to repair themselves,” she said.
When regularly doing red light therapy at home, however, Overton suggests avoiding using it in conjunction with ingredients like retinols and exfoliants that can dry out the skin and cause irritation.
The American Academy of Dermatology Association also cautions against extended usage for people with darker skin tones and skin conditions like lupus that cause light sensitivity, as red light can cause hyperpigmentation. And while for most people red light therapy devices are safe for daily use, Alexander recommends limiting sessions to 20 minutes or less per day.
Even though red light is having a viral moment, Alexander stands behind its clinical efficacy.
“Yes, it’s trendy, but it’s also based in science, and I really believe in this practice as a healing modality,” she said.
