The Filipino word “barangay” means “neighborhood” or “community of people.”

For Gabriel Tungol, creator & cook behind @barangayatl, the term represents both community & locality; equal parts terroir cuisine and hyper-regional lived narratives. His pop-up pays homage to the deep-rooted culinary traditions of his childhood, with his parents from Pampanga and the Visayas, alongside playful interpolations of his own experiences as an ’80s-born Filipino American.

Gabriel says that Sinigang is perhaps the most beloved and classic comfort food enjoyed throughout the many corners of the Philippines; it is a briny, savory, balanced soup given sour notes by the use of tamarind. While it can be made using fish, shrimp, beef, or other proteins, the traditional go-to of pork is the version Gabriel grew up on and finds most thoroughly satisfying (his beef short rib sinigang is shown above).

He’ll have a large simmering stockpot of the delicious broth, succulent pork, and all the tender vegetable accompaniments that round out the dish served with steamed jasmine rice this Sunday 8/28 at the O4W Block Party at A Mano where you will also find @gorditasatl (Mexican Street), @krupana_atl (Bosnian(ish),  @bamepopup (Vietnamese), @crinklesbynina (Asian baked goods and desserts) & @thechaibox (chai teas & beverages). 

Behind the Food is a new column from Punk Foodie’s Sam Flemming that highlights some of the most unique and delicious dishes from the Atlanta underground dining scene. Go deeper via Punk Foodie’s weekly guides and pop-up calendar

This story first appeared in Side Dish, a weekly newsletter. Subscribe for free.

Sam Flemming | Punk Foodie

Sam Flemming is the founder of Punk Foodie, the love letter, fanzine, and directory newsletter and Instagram account for the Atlanta underground dining scene.