SCAD FASH presents Ellen von Unwerth: This Side of Paradise, a celebration of photography that exemplifies raucous debauchery, female empowerment, and unbridled sensuality.
Ellen von Unwerth, originally from Frankfurt, Germany, spent her early life being shuffled between foster homes in Bavaria. Eventually she was able to graduate from high school in Munich, where she then worked as a circus magician’s assistant for three years.
One day, von Unwerth was walking down the street when a photographer asker her if she had ever considered modeling. She decided to give it a try and moved to Paris. Though she found success as a model, she didn’t the lack of control she had over where and how her imagery was used, and in time shifted to a role behind the lens.
In her photography, von Unwerth draws inspiration from her experiences as a model to create dazzling and glamorous portraits. Her photographs can be described as “playfully erotic,” with recurring themes of the female gaze, strength, and sensuality present in her work.
Throughout the years von Unwerth has made a name for herself as a fashion and editorial photographer and director. She has gained notoriety for contributions to advertising campaigns for brands including Chanel, Dior, Miu Miu, Azzedine Alaïa, Agent Provocateur, Guess, Jimmy Choo, Ferragamo, and Absolut.
Musicians such as Duran Duran, Janet Jackson, Christina Aguilera, Brittany Spears, and Rihanna have all featured von Unwerth’s photography on their albums. Her portraits have also appeared in the pages of Vogue, i-D, Interview, Elle, Vanity Fair, Glamour, and Playboy.
Von Unwerth’s recognition includes first prize at the International Festival of Fashion Photography in 1991, a LUCIE Award for Fashion Photography in 2019, a Royal Photographic Society Award in 2020, and an Iconic Photographer Influencer Award in 2021.
I recently had the chance to speak with Rafael Gomes, Curator and Creative Director of SCAD FASH, about why it’s so important to showcase von Unwerth’s incredible body of work.
Hi Rafael! Thanks for taking the time to discuss This Side of Paradise.
This is the first time I have heard of someone transitioning from modeling to being behind the camera, is it as uncommon of a path as it seems to be?
Rafael Gomes: It’s not particularly uncommon. Many models transition to roles behind the scenes, stepping into production positions or shooting as photographers like Ellen von Unwerth or Lee Miller. They’re transitioning from being front-and- center and embracing a role behind the lens that gives them a sense of artistic freedom. What’s exceptional about Ellen is how successful she was in making this transition. Her photography career has completely surpassed her time as a model so much so that people are surprised to hear about her past.
How did you first learn of Ellen von Unwerth?
Gomes: I first came across Ellen von Unwerth’s work when I was still living in Brazil. The 1989 Guess Campaign starring Claudia Schiffer had just come out and made a worldwide impact that put both Ellen and Claudia on the map. I started to recognize her work on album covers, too. She’s shot over nearly 200 and worked with incredible musicians and pop stars like Beyoncé, Rihanna, Britney Spears, Janet Jackson, Hole, and Duran Duran to produce iconic album covers.
How do you think her background as a model informs her photography practices?
Gomes: Ellen’s previous experience brings a dynamic balance to her work. As a photographer, she can picture her final vision. But with her experience in modeling, she can communicate what she needs from her models to achieve it. It’s an all-encompassing understanding of the creative process, from posing to lighting to composition. She’s been on both sides of the lens, which really shows up in her work.
Beyond those technical benefits of her background, Ellen’s past influences the set and how she interacts with her models. Rejecting her experience of being told how to smile or what to do as a model, she encourages her models to feel empowered and to act with spontaneity on set.
Would you characterize her photography career as being an “exemplification of the female gaze”?
Gomes: I absolutely would. As I mentioned before, Ellen creates an on-set environment where models are free to express themselves. And that expression is what Ellen is interested in capturing in her work. Her images all have a great, theatrical sense of play and sensuality. It’s all in service to her largely female subjects and audience. She’s capturing women who feel in control with curated sets and saturated colors, creating a fantasy world full of glamorous but strong women. There’s an air of rebellion.
Can you tell me about the process to select and curate this exhibition – I’m sure there are more photographs than what is on display at SCAD FASH, so what was your criteria when choosing the images in this exhibition?
Gomes: The idea of celebrating life was the guiding light of the curation process. Like 100 years before, there’s energy towards happiness and excitement again after a dark period we’ve gone through as a collective. Following the devastation of WWI, the 1920s were a decade rich with people living their lives to the fullest, expressing themselves through art, music, architecture and clothing. We’re trying to emulate that sense of joie de vivre with these images and remind everyone that there is joy in life. Ellen is an artist with four decades of photography and short films that truly represent the zest for life, glamour, and self-expression.
What is special about Ellen von Unwerh’s photography? What does it contribute to the SCAD FASH museum experience?
Gomes: One thing I think that’s important to highlight is that Ellen von Unwerth: This Side of Paradise was a very deliberate choice to showcase a female artist with confidence and self-assuredness at her core.
As an arts university, it’s important for SCAD to present artists with a powerful message to educate and inspire our students and visitors. This exhibition is very powerful to many of our students in related degree programs including photography, fashion design, film and television, advertising and branding, but serves as an inspiration for all SCAD students in the importance of having your own style and doing things your own way. The art displayed also hints at the diversity of her body of work.
You’ll find editorial shots, campaigns, and album covers alongside Ellen’s short films. She also has a multitude of subjects from cabaret stars to drag queens to pop princesses. For students and visitors alike, there’s a lesson in boldly expressing yourself and your interests through art.
Ellen von Unwerth: This Side of Paradise will be on display at SCAD FASH through Jan. 8, 2024.
