The Move is your monthly guide to the top food finds from Senior Editor Beth McKibben, who oversees restaurant and dining coverage at Rough Draft. Subscribe to our Thursday dining newsletter Side Dish to stay in the know.
ATL Chop at Frazie’s Meat and Market
2030 Main Street, Riverside, Atlanta
Think of the chopped cheese as the best parts of a griddled hamburger and Philly cheesesteak mashed together with melty American cheese, onions, peppers, lettuce, and tomatoes. I prefer this New York City bodega staple to a hamburger. Try the ATL Chop at Frazie’s Meat and Market in Riverside. It’s super juicy and comes with most of the traditional ingredients, including lettuce, sauteed onions and peppers, and tomatoes. Frazie’s uses Tillamook cheddar cheese and adds a savory sauce to the meat mixture, which gives the sandwich extra tang and a flavor boost. Opt for the potato salad as your side. I also enjoy the Southern take on the chopped cheese from B-Side in Decatur. It comes on a benne seed roll with pickles and a combo of Duke’s mayo and mustard.
Monday night supper club at Wick and Nick’s
Address released upon reservation
I recently dined with two fellow food journalists at an intimate supper club on the edge of Grant Park. As with my discovery of Bovino After Dark last summer, I stumbled upon Wick and Nick’s on Instagram.
Chefs Jared Warwick of Octopus Bar and Ben Skolnick of BoccaLupo launched Wick and Nick’s in 2021. There have been different iterations of Wick and Nick’s at restaurants like 8ARM (RIP), Whoopsie’s, and Octopus Bar. But the six-course Blueblood dinners on Monday nights held at their studio apartment are where these two talented chefs shine. (Think bright pops of citrus flavoring live scallop ceviche served in its shell, a rich mousse of foie gras amping up the earthiness of romanesco, and playful takes on classics like Duck A L’Orange.)
Lit by the neon glow of red and purple lights, people mingle at tables scattered in the living room. Warwick and Skolnick work beyond their guests in the small kitchen, combining a dinner party vibe with a chef’s table experience for just 16 people. Optional drink pairings are available from guest bartenders who serve a mix of cocktails, nonalcoholic drinks, and wine. You may also spy Wick and Nick’s unofficial maître d’ during the evening, a friendly orange cat named Waylon.
Blueblood Vol. 4: “Super Deluxe”, March 18. $125 per person. Dinner starts at 8 p.m. Address released upon reservation.
Cathead biscuits and breakfast at Pastries A Go Go
235 Ponce De Leon Place, Decatur
Shout out to Decaturish for reminding me to visit Pastries A Go Go again. The breakfast and brunch spot sports a similar vibe to that of Java Jive on the Atlanta side of Ponce. Service is friendly and attentive and the menu boasts comfort foods, familiar breakfast favorites, and bottomless coffee. A cathead biscuit here is an absolute must, and you can’t go wrong with any of the generously portioned omelets. I enjoyed the vegetable omelet stuffed with peppers, zucchini, mushrooms, and cheese during a recent visit. If you love an eggy breakfast sandwich, order a BEC topped with gouda cheese and thick-cut smoked bacon served on a cathead biscuit.
Pastry chef Bob Light and his wife opened Pastries A Go Go as a bakery in 1995 where they served baked goods, pastries, and coffee. The couple eventually expanded the menu, offering breakfast and brunch, which included the now-famous cathead biscuit. This is the kind of place where servers know your name and your order and regulars chat with one another across tables. It appears Light will turn the business over to Adriana Park and Narit McCrary soon, whom he’s been mentoring. They don’t plan to change Light’s menu, other than to add a few new items, including mimosas. Look for a decor refresh, too. Change can be hard, especially for restaurant regulars, but Light appears ready to slow down and turn the reins of his beloved establishment over to the next generation.
