“Drink domestic wines.” That’s the big ask in 2024.
If you’re somewhat tapped into the wine scene or keep up with wine trends, you’ve undoubtedly witnessed the surge of excitement on social media surrounding American wines, particularly those from California. It’s primarily driven by influential California winemaker Patrick Cappiello of Monte Rio. He’s been at the forefront of this recent wave of enthusiasm for domestic and California wines.
Before beginning his winemaking career, Cappiello was a well-known sommelier for some of the best restaurants in New York City like TriBeCa Grill and Veritas. He also owned a wine bar, Pearl and Ash.
A challenge and call to action
In February 2024, Cappiello posted a candid message on Instagram about the state of American wineries.
“American wineries are struggling right now. We have a huge amount of inventory and a huge decrease in sales. Over 20% decrease in the last year in sales for American wine. And you can help us,” Cappiello wrote.
He stated that American winemakers need people to drink and buy their wines. Cappiello then challenged the country’s sommeliers, wine sellers and buyers, and consumers to only buy American-made wines for two months. The post went viral within the wine community and many retailers and restaurants increased their domestic wine offerings.
However, despite the concerted effort, buying solely American wines for sixty days proved challenging. And, this isn’t the first time we’ve heard of American winemakers pushing wine buyers and consumers to drink domestically.
Napa Valley Vintners, a nonprofit trade organization, has been working diligently for decades to be the voice of the Napa Valley wine industry. They’ve done an incredible job facilitating wine buyer visits to Napa Valley and hosting and supporting several events at wineries around the area. The Oregon Wine Board features a similar mission, as do the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance and the Washington State Wine Commission.
All of these regions are working steadfastly to shift the conversation and consumer mindset on American-made wine. Still, domestic wine sales are down.
Atlanta restaurants heeding the call
Several Atlanta restaurants heeded Cappiello’s call to action this year. Some even took the challenge a step further, with restaurants like Lucian Books and Wine, Talat Market, Ticonderoga Club, and Miller Union also spotlighting wines produced by young American winemakers on menus. You’ll find American wines from Union Sacré, A Tribute to Grace, Martha Stoumen, Jolie Lade, and T. Berkeley now offered by the glass around town.
“It has been a little over a decade since Jon Bonne published his book, New California Wine, which put a spotlight on an undercurrent of exciting small producers shaking things up in the California wine world,” said Nathan Huffstetler, a sales representative for Rive Gauche Wine Co.
Without the efforts of winemakers like Cappiello and domestic wine industry organizations like those mentioned above people might not know or hear about these wines, save going to the vineyards producing them.
“Georgia can certainly thank the work of Carson Demmond and Rive Gauche for pioneering this movement in our state,” Huffstetler continued. “Some of the best wine that California has ever produced is happening right now; more than ever, oenophiles need to give California winemakers a fresh look.”
Five California and domestic wines to try under $30
2022 Monte Rio Mission, Lodi, California ($24)
The Mission grape has been growing in California since the late 1800s. It’s been fascinating exploring how winemakers produce this grape varietal. Patrick Cappiello has been bottling Mission since 2019 and each year the wine gets better and better. His light body red (dark brick in color) has moderate tannins with notes of dried herbs, tart berries, and red flowers.
2022 Maître de Chai Red Table Wine, Clements Hills, Lodi, California ($23)
Maitre de Chai Wines, established in 2012, always delivers with the price. The 2022 vintage of Red Table Wine, made exclusively from 100% Lodi Grenache, was designed to be a daily drinker at home or the go-to glass of wine at restaurants. Maitre de Chai nailed it with this dry, fruit-forward, juicy, crowd-pleasing wine. The label is quite distinctive, too, with an eye-catching sketch of Lady Liberty and a grizzly bear.
2022 Kivelstadt Cellars “KC Labs” ZiN, Mendocino County, California ($22)
It’s hard not to be obsessed with 100% zinfandel from this certified organic old vine. It was planted in 1955 on Pinole gravelly loam soils – one of the most sought-after soil types in Mendocino County. KC Labs Zinfandel is unlike any other zinfandel you’ve tasted, primarily because it was made using carbonic fermentation, similar to how winemakers produce beaujolais. Using this winemaking technique resulted in a zinfandel so light and fruity, it might be mistaken for rosé. A chillable red low in tannins, with notes of red berries and tangerines, KC Labs Zinfandel is incredibly easy to drink. It’s a porch pounder, as the sommeliers say, for a pool party or backyard barbecue.
2022 Kelley Fox ‘Nerthus’, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($26)
Kelley Fox founded her winery in 2007, after being a winemaker in Oregon for seven years. Fox produces small-batch wines in the Willamette Valley that are expressive and true to the region. Nerthus is an aromatic, skin-contact Alsatian blend comprised of 34% early muscat, 34% pinot gris, 18% riesling, and 14% pinot blanc. The pinkish-orange hue is striking in the glass. That first sip captures your attention with stone fruit notes of peach and apricot, along with honeysuckle, orange blossom, and ginger. It’s summer in a bottle.
2023 Outward Wines Shell Creek Vineyard Valdiguié, Central Coast, California ($28)
This might be the wine of summer for 2024. As people gravitate toward lower alcohol and lighter style wines, Outward Wines Shell Creek Vineyard Valdiguié checks both boxes. Coming in at 11.7% ABV, Valdiguié or “Napa Gamay” typically produces a wine light in style to serve slightly chilled. Expect notes of strawberry, rhubarb, dusty earth, and watermelon Jolly Rancher. It only makes sense to bring two bottles of this wine to your next dinner party, because one isn’t enough.
Other domestic wines to try
2019 Gravel Bar ‘Alluvial Red’, Colombia Valley, Washington ($22)
2022 Maison Noir Wines “Bastardo Jackson” Trousseau Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($30)
2021 Lone Birch Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington ($14)
All wines mentioned above available at 3 Parks Wine in the Old Fourth Ward and Glenwood Park. Both locations offer daily and weekly wine tastings.