Poncey-Highland gains a wine bar on Feb. 15, when Madeira Park opens in the former cafe space of the old Highland Inn, now Otto’s Apartment Hotel.
James Beard award-winning chef Steven Satterfield and his Miller Union partner and wine director, Neal McCarthy, teamed up with Dive Wine founder and sommelier Tim Willard for Madeira Park. It becomes the second restaurant for Satterfield and McCarthy and the first for Willard, who brings a wealth of wine experience from years working in restaurants and at import companies like European Cellars.
Satterfield and McCarthy opened Miller Union on Brady Avenue 15 years ago. Since then, the restaurant has racked up numerous accolades, including a James Beard award for Satterfield for Best Chef: Southeast, multiple nods to its wine program, and Michelin recognition for the last two years. McCarthy earned Michelin’s service award in 2023.
“Neal and I talked about doing a wine bar ages ago. We’ve traveled together quite a bit in Europe and always seek out these comfortable neighborhood places with cool wine lists and little snacks,” Satterfield said. “That’s what we wanted to give people in Atlanta.”
They initially signed a letter of intent in 2019 for a space near Miller Union. When the pandemic hit, Satterfield and McCarthy pulled the plug on the project. But they never stop looking for another location.
In 2024, McCarthy presented Satterfield with a plan to open their wine bar in the old cafe space at the Highland Inn and bring on Willard as a partner. The trio named Madeira Park for a park that was once a centerpiece of the garden community known as Copenhill, now part of Poncey-Highland.
But Satterfield stressed that Madeira Park isn’t a second Miller Union, nor do they consider it a restaurant. Madeira Park is a wine bar, he said, and the vibe and menus reflect that.
McCarthy and Willard combined their expertise with fresh perspectives from general manager and sommelier Jade Palmer to create a wine list appealing to a broad spectrum of wine drinkers. Expect 25 wines by the glass and a deep bottle list spanning the globe, ranging from familiar favorites and budget-friendly choices to boundary-pushing vintages and hard-to-find wines catering to collectors.
“We’re not looking to follow any trends. We wanted wines that engage your palate – wines made with intention you can taste,” Willard said. “We spent the last two months tasting hundreds of wines, going through each with a fine tooth comb and throwing out everything except those few we truly engaged with.”
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“We’ll have some party-time wines that are inexpensive, too, but those wines will also be produced really well for the price,” he added.
Fair pricing and accessibility in wine are both important to Willard. In addition to offering a house red and white on the menu, Willard said people will find deals on closeout wines from great producers with price points not often seen on other by-the-glass and bottle lists in Atlanta.
Look for fortified wines like vermouth, sherry, port, and madeira, along with beer on draft and low-ABV cocktails from bar manager Philip Weltner.
As for food, Satterfield collaborated closely with Chef Ollie Honderd to develop the menu for Madeira Park, something he said began with a tasting at the studio kitchen behind his home. The collaboration evolved from there.
“It’s a constant laboratory of deliciousness back there with Ollie. We collaborated, and I still provide input, but he started to own this menu, and that’s exciting” Satterfield said.
Starting in the mid-afternoon, Madeira Park offers a selection of snacks, including ham and cheese beignets, dressed oysters, and Georgia shrimp tempura. The cheese and charcuterie come from Raymond Hook, a longtime friend, who operates Capella Cheese at Armour Yards. Hook and Satterfield have known each other for 25 years, having met while working for Chef Anne Quatrano.
The full menu begins at 5 p.m. with dishes such as poached Gulf grouper bouillabaisse with pickled mussels, half chicken with Armagnac jus, and a bistro steak. For dessert, there’s a butterscotch pear with blue cheese and pecans.
“We want the food to complement all the other aspects of Madeira Park. The wine, the beautiful design, and what diners bring to it,” Honderd said. “The food is simple but thoughtful and meant to pair with wine. Madeira Park should be a place for interacting. If you see a friend at the end of the bar or walking in front of the patio, you should feel comfortable calling them over.”
Satterfield, McCarthy, and Willard tapped AI3 Architects to create a space with movement and spontaneity in mind. The dining room includes banquette seating, communal tables for gathering, and a 16-seat bar. The 35-seat, partially covered patio facing North Highland offers options for sitting and standing.
“It should feel comfortable and casual, like a little community. We don’t have to have everyone in a seat. Standing room is totally fine here,” Satterfield said. “We think Poncey-Highland worked out as a better location for us. There’s so much good synergy around this neighborhood right now and we’re loving the vibe.”
Madeira Park will open at 5 p.m. on Feb. 15 and 16. Regular hours begin on Feb. 18, when it opens at 3 p.m., Tuesday through Friday, and at noon on weekends.
The wine bar joins Colette Bread, owned by Sarah Dodge, nonalcoholic bottle shop The Zero Co., and a location of ice cream shop Big Softie at the Poncey-Highland complex. Later this summer, Talat Market chefs Parnass Savang and Rod Lassiter will open Thai bar Some Luck beside Madeira Park in the former Highland Ballroom Lounge.
The block is also home to Sweet Auburn BBQ, Peruvian restaurant Tio Lucho’s, seafood market and cafe Fishmonger, Soul Vegetarian No. 2, and East Pole Coffee Co.
Madeira Park, 640 North Highland Ave., Poncey-Highland. Regular hours, starting Feb. 18: Tuesday – Friday, snacks from 3 to 5 p.m., dinner begins at 5 p.m. Full menu offered Saturday and Sunday, starting at noon.