North vs. South Thanksgiving sides smackdown: Vegetables

When it comes to the Thanksgiving table, side dishes are anything but an afterthought, sometimes equaling or even eclipsing the turkey. Thanksgiving sides also illustrate the rich communities and cultural influences found throughout the nation. A classic side dish in one region or family, for instance, may very well be unheard of in another. 

To get a taste of Thanksgiving across the US, six Atlanta chefs — three Southern and three hailing from the North and Midwest — shared their favorite Thanksgiving side dishes and family food traditions for the holiday. 

For this South versus North side dish smackdown, Auburn Angel chef Robert Butts (South) and Lyla Lila and Elise chef Craig Richards (North) talk must-have Thanksgiving vegetables.

Read the other Thanksgiving side dish smackdown stories here.

The South: Greens

Auburn Angel chef Robert Butts (Georgia) 

Greens aren’t just a huge part of Auburn Angel chef and owner Robert Butts’ Thanksgiving tradition — they’re also an irrefutable part of his identity. “It’s one of the first crops that slaves were actually able to use and grow,” he said. “So [greens] have a rich history.”

Butts said his family was big on the Thanksgiving feast growing up, treating the meal as a sporting event and mapping the plays in advance. 

“Everyone had their role. I remember having to pick all the greens off the stems, and they were oh-so particular,” he said. “It was very tedious work, and I didn’t understand it at first.” In time, Butts learned to appreciate the process. 

Like the South itself, recipes for greens vary. Many families opt for one type of greens, such as collards or turnips, while others make mixed or “braided” greens, which combine varieties. There’s the option to add smoked meat, like turkey, ham hocks, or chicken. 

Butts’ family recipe, which he now serves at Auburn Angel, includes a triad of collards, mustard greens, and turnip greens, along with red and green peppers, onions, garlic, ham hock, and smoked turkey. He seasons the greens with hot sauce, apple cider vinegar, and a touch of brown sugar. 

By the time the greens are ready, Butts said, the house is engulfed with the aroma of just-braised greens for the holiday. 

A triad of greens (Serves 6)

Ingredients

• 4 to 5 bags of collards, cleaned
• 3 Tbsp olive oil or vegetable oil
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 2 red peppers, chopped
• 1 green pepper, chopped
• 6 cloves whole garlic
• 4 to 5 quarts vegetable stock or water
• 2 1/2 cups brown sugar
• 2 cups hot sauce
• 3 oz red pepper flakes
• 2 cups apple cider vinegar
• 3 Tbsp onion powder
• 2 Tbsp garlic powder
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Add oil to a large pot and add heat. Sauté onions, peppers, and garlic until translucent and aroma comes through. 
2. Add greens. Mix well with pepper and onion mixture until combined. 
3. Pour in stock until the greens are submerged. Let cook until the greens break down. 
4. Incorporate seasonings, hot sauce, vinegar, and brown sugar. Mix well. 
5. Let cook until greens are done and soft to the bite.
6. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve. 

The North/Midwest: Green bean casserole 

Lyla Lila, Elise chef Craig Richards (Nebraska) 

Growing up in Nebraska, Lyla Lila and Elise chef Craig Richards said it’s not unusual for him to come home for Thanksgiving and find snow on the ground. It also means there’s very little fresh, local produce available in Nebraska around Thanksgiving. Unlike Atlanta, you can’t just run down to the local farmers market to grab some fall greens or late-season beans. His mother often cooked with canned vegetables, especially during the fall and winter, including when creating a family favorite for Thanksgiving: green bean casserole. 

Richards now helps his mother cook Thanksgiving for 24 people. But despite being a chef with two Atlanta restaurants, the family still wants nostalgic dishes such as green bean casserole, using a recipe that likely comes from the back of the French’s fried onions container. 

“I think Thanksgiving food is more about nostalgia than the food itself. I tried to be cheffy with homemade cranberry sauce and green bean casserole with a homemade cream of mushroom sauce, but it’s not the same,” Richards explained. “The most gourmet thing my mom did is she bought roasted garlic cream of mushroom soup instead of the regular cream of mushroom soup one year, and that was next level.”

The turkey is the cheffiest Richards gets on Thanksgiving Day. He uses Thomas Keller’s roast turkey recipe, stuffing the bird with oranges, red onions, and bay leaves. 

For Thanksgiving side dish staples like green bean casserole, Richards said it’s easy to strike a balance between the ease and convenience of canned goods, like cream of mushroom soup, and fresh ingredients. (Think parboiling fresh green beans for a few minutes before compiling and baking the casserole, or frying a batch of freshly sliced shallots to layer on top.) But here’s a cheffier version of green bean casserole to try from Richards.

Green bean casserole (Serves 6)

Ingredients

• 1.5 pounds haricot vert green beans, trimmed
• Vegetable or canola oil
• 1 cup shallots, sliced thin
• Cornstarch
• 3 Tbsp all-purpose flour
• 8 oz assorted mushrooms sliced (maitake, crimini, shiitake, etc.), sliced thin
• 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
• .25 tsp grated nutmeg
• 1 cup of chicken broth (vegetable also works)
• 1 cup heavy cream

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 375.
2. Blanch green beans in salted water for 2 minutes, then shock in ice water and dry.
3. Heat 2 inches of vegetable or canola oil in a deep skillet over medium heat.
4. Toss shallots in corn starch until lightly coated. Fry in oil until golden in color. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and season with a pinch of salt.
5. In a medium pan, heat butter over medium heat until melted. Add mushrooms, nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Sauté until soft and slightly caramelized. 
6. Add 2 Tbsp of flour and cook for about a minute. As flour cooks to the mushrooms, add cream and chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Whisk intermittently to assure there are no lumps of flour. 
7. Cook for about 5 minutes on medium heat until it begins to thicken.
8. Remove from heat and add green beans. Mix to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper. 
9. Transfer to a casserole dish, top with shallots and bake for 25 minutes until it becomes bubbly.

Read the other Thanksgiving side dish smackdown stories here.