Opening Feb. 13 at Hammonds House Museum, “Beau McCall: Divas, Blues, and Memories” brings together wearable art, wall work and luminous collages built from thousands of hand-sewn buttons. Curated by Souleo, the exhibition moves like a mixtape — disco and blues, diva worship, friendship, loss and survival — rooted in artist Beau McCall’s coming-of-age as a young Black gay man in the 1970s.
McCall, widely known as “The Button Man,” has work in permanent collections at the Getty Research Institute, the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture.
Ahead of the opening night for “Divas, Blues, and Memories,” I asked McCall what he listened to while making the work, who he’s honoring and what it takes to build a career one button at a time.
What was on repeat in your studio — and how did it shape the work?
As I created each piece, I listened to the music of the individual referenced in that work. For example, I listened to my Labelle playlist when I worked on each group member’s collage … I played all of their albums, particularly “Phoenix.” That album has a lot of drama, and it fueled the maximalist approach I took to the work.
For example, with the Sarah Dash collage I included a lot of silver buttons because she was called the “silver throat.” And I wanted to visually convey the beauty and richness of her vocal style. Plus, Labelle was known for wearing silver costumes and their music has a very Afrofuturistic sound to it. Fortunately, I also had a relationship with Sarah, and she told me red was her favorite color. So that’s why the work has red in it. Listening to the music while creating helped me tap into the essence of each diva.
Who’s woven into “Diva Worship” and “REWIND,” and why honor them this way?
I am tributing my LGBTQ+ friends who helped me come of age … These were the early days of the LGBTQ+ movement and it was very difficult to be out in society. When I came out and found my tribe of like-minded individuals who were also navigating coming to terms with their sexuality and gender expression, it gave me a safe space to explore and form my own identity. Within these friendships we bonded over music … , the exhibition features tributes to some of our favorite divas such as Billie Holiday, Donna Summer, Sylvester, Grace Jones and The Pointer Sisters. I wanted to honor my friends and celebrate the music we loved because these are two universal topics that everyone can relate to and find some sense of joy, hope and inspiration.
I wanted to honor my friends and celebrate the music we loved because these are two universal topics that everyone can relate to and find some sense of joy, hope and inspiration.
Artist Beau McCall
The “REWIND” works hold a great deal of memory and loss. How did you carry that emotional weight?
Creating the REWIND collages was very therapeutic for me. The series and artist’s book are both based on a scrapbook of photos that I would occasionally revisit for a trip down memory lane. During those moments of reflection there was sadness, but also a sense of joy and appreciation for the friendships and music that served as our soundtrack. … Through these collages I am preserving our memories, and that makes the emotional weight worth carrying.
What does your process and timeline look like?
For the wearable art and wall piece, I used buttons I purchased at button shops and flea markets, and there are many buttons that were donated to me by strangers and family members. Everywhere I go from Johannesburg to Atlanta, I am always finding buttons, or someone is giving me buttons to use in my work. I also used denim from thrift shops or fabric stores in these works. The denim serves as the canvas for the works because it is durable and can withstand the weight of the buttons. My work can range from 5 to 500 pounds depending on what I am creating.
Each button is hand-sewn using embroidery thread. I start with a base layer of mostly uniform buttons to create a sheet. Then on top of that I sew the decorative buttons. This top layer of decorative buttons is where I use the buttons as a language to help me tell a story or connect to a theme. For example, I’ll use a button in the shape of a musical note to connect to the theme of music or an oddly shaped button to evoke a mood or feeling.
It took me about three months to create each wearable art piece in the show. For the wall piece titled “Billie’s Blues,” it was a 20-year journey. The work was originally completed in 1995 as a button pillow. But recently I decided to transform it into what it is now. I removed the pillow stuffing and added strips of fabric — a combination of burlap and upcycled denim — which are interlocked using a plain weave. The button string at the top allows for the piece to be worn or — as it is presented in this case — hung on the wall as a work of art.
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The button collages are handmade too. But they take on a completely different process. For the collages I find archival images — either from my private collection or from the public. I mix these images with photos of my own button artwork. I always take detailed shots of my work. So when it’s time to make a collage I pull from those images and combine them with the archival photos. I cut and splice until I am satisfied with the layout of the collage. It can take anywhere from a few days to a couple of weeks to complete a collage. Then, I scan the work and have it printed onto metal for luminosity.
While this all sounds very technical — and it is — I must say that when I am in the process of creating it is a spiritual experience. Once that spark of inspiration is lit I feel like my hands are being guided button by button by some higher force.
What does the button symbolize in this exhibition?
In so many homes, buttons are collected in jars or cans and passed down through generations. These buttons hold memories and remind us of those we care about or moments we’ve experienced. So in creating these works using buttons I am preserving and celebrating the memories of my friends and the divas we loved.
What do you hope visitors carry with them?
McCall: I want people to find at least one piece — or even just one button — that pushes their emotions, reminding them of the power and joy of music and friendship.
“Beau McCall: Divas, Blues, and Memories” opens Thursday, Feb. 13, with a reception from 6:30–9 p.m. at Hammonds House Museum, 503 Peeples St. SW, Atlanta. The exhibition runs through June 28, 2026.