Jake Harvey remembers 2011 well.
It was the year the New Zealand native traveled to the United States to visit a friend for three months. Funded by money earned from his house painting business, the pair arranged a whirlwind, coast-to-coast tour of America that included seeing their favorite bands and hip-hop artists.
A year later, Harvey was back in the U.S. and landed a job as a manager at an East Village pie shop in New York City. That’s where he learned the business of baking and conceived the idea for Heaps, the New Zealand hand pie pop-up that would eventually bring him to Atlanta five years later.
Now a highly successful pop-up and wholesale business, Harvey will open Heaps as a restaurant on the outskirts of Decatur, taking over the former King Kabob space on East Ponce de Leon Avenue early next year.
On smoko with a meat pie
Unlike an empanada, American pot pie, or a British pasty, New Zealand meat pies come with a substantial double crust. The hand-sized pastry also features much more gravy in the filling and is baked, never fried.
British colonization brought hand pies to New Zealand in the 19th century, becoming a staple food for farmers and the working class who endured hours of physical labor long before lunchtime. Typically eaten during a mid-morning smoko (or short work break) with a cup of tea or drink from the dairy, these protein-packed pies provided much-needed sustenance.
Today, you’ll find the savory mini pies sold at bakeries, cafes, and dairies across the island nation. New Zealanders take great pride in their pie-making skills, explained Harvey, something he was keen to show off with Heaps.
“I’ve been cooking since I was 10. My parents gave us two nights a week to cook dinner for the family. To keep things interesting, I started choosing a different country and trying to cook the cuisine to perfect the flavors,” Harvey said. “I loved cooking dishes from Asian countries, especially curries and Thai dishes.”
He learned to make curries and chutneys from his dad. Harvey’s love for Thai and South Asian ingredients and flavors would form the recipe backbone for the hand pies sold at Heaps.
From NZ to NYC to ATL
After five years of operating Heaps as a pop-up, Harvey was ready to open a restaurant in New York City.
It didn’t work out.
Rather than opening Heaps in New York City at the end of 2017, Harvey instead found himself in Atlanta. Friends in Atlanta suggested a fresh start in the South. Harvey knew Atlanta was a hub for entrepreneurs like himself. The city also included booming music and hip-hop scenes (a bonus for Harvey).
To make ends meet, he waited tables at Brick Store Pub in Decatur.
Curiosity over his distinct New Zealand accent often led to conversations with people at the beer bar. Sometimes they complained about the lack of food at local breweries when talking with Harvey about food to pair with their beer. It got him thinking again about Heaps.
Harvey soon started baking hand pies in his kitchen at home, experimenting with different crusts and fillings. He’d give the finished product to friends and colleagues to try, asking them for feedback.
The Atlanta debut of Heaps took place at Noni’s in 2018. More pop-ups would follow at breweries like Halfway Crooks in Summerhill and restaurants like Bogg’s Social and Supply in West End.
As word spread about Harvey’s New Zealand hand pies, he launched a small wholesale arm of the business to keep up with demand.
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“I rented the Bogg’s kitchen for four years. It was my commissary kitchen. During the pandemic, I was pretty much the only food around and it helped me build a customer base in West End,” said Harvey. “I was hustling there by myself every day and then the breweries started calling. I had to launch wholesale so places could take the pies and warm them up in warmers, just like in New Zealand. I didn’t have to be there.”
In addition to restaurants and breweries, Harvey sells hand pies at Brave’s Truist Park, the cafe at the High Museum in Midtown, and Ash Coffee in Virginia-Highland. And he plans to continue operating the lucrative wholesale business when Heaps opens at its new Decatur location later this winter.
Heaps in Decatur
In Decatur, Harvey wants to provide people with a menu and service experience close to those found at cafes and dairies throughout New Zealand.
In addition to savory meat pies like beef and cheddar, Thai chicken curry, and lamb and vegetables, the menu will also feature fish and chips, flaky white fish sandwiches, and salads. Look for sides of chips (fries) and curry and mashed potatoes and gravy. Harvey may even add a burger to the menu and plans to serve beer and wine.
Harvey said he’s excited about the future, not only for Heaps but for his family. Over the weekend, the father of two officially adopted his stepdaughter. The momentous life event — something he called “awesome” — had him reflecting on how far he’s come since arriving in the U.S. 12 years ago and starting Heaps in New York City.
“It’s a pretty special time for me and my family. It’s funny seeing my original business plan now and how I thought I was opening Heaps in New York in 2017,” said Harvey. “Friends telling me Heaps would definitely work in Atlanta, I’m glad I listened.”
“I loved my years in New York, but as disappointed as I was for Heaps not working out there, moving to Atlanta was actually a blessing.”
Heaps will open in early 2025 for to-go and dine-in service. 2752 East Ponce de Leon Avenue, Decatur.