SCAD FASH, the museum dedicated to fashion and film located at the top of the SCAD Atlanta building, is currently hosting an international exhibition of works by Imane Ayissi. The exhibition, titled “Imane Ayissi: From Africa to the World,” showcases more than 40 creations that celebrate African culture and traditions viewed through a haute couture lens.
Originally from Cameroon, Ayissi has always been a creative at heart. His father was a champion boxer and his mother was crowned Miss Cameroon 1960 in addition to working as a flight attendant.
Ayissi showed an early interest in fashion when he, as a child, deconstructed his mother’s elaborate pageant gowns in order to learn more about their construction. “He grew up with a very glamorous mother,” explained Education and Programs Manager Stephanie Ray as she led me through the museum to a special display.
Tucked around a corner is one of the most treasured creations from his youth; a beautiful 80s-inspired dress Ayissi constructed for his mother using fabric his father brought back from a trip to Nigeria.
Despite his innate interest and passion for fashion, Ayissi was initially focused on his love of dance. As a child he joined the Ballet National du Cameroun, later gaining acclaim and touring with Patrick Dupont and other singers and choreographers across the globe.
During his travels, Ayissi fell into modeling as well. He eventually settled in Paris where he modeled for some of the world’s most elite fashion brands including Dior, Lanvin, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Valentino. Ayissi began to make appearances in fashion features and advertising campaigns around Europe. At the same time, he was simultaneously developing his own namesake Imane Ayissi Couture brand which he formally launched in 2004.
In 2020, Ayissi was invited to join the Fédération de la haute Couture et de la Mode as a guest member. He is the first sub-Saharan designer featured in the official haute couture calendar. And now, Ayissi’s designs are prominently featured here in Atlanta in the SCAD FASH museum.
“I am very honored that SCAD has chosen to dedicate an exhibition to my work, the first exhibition by a major fashion museum entirely devoted to the work of an African designer. I would like to thank Paula Wallace, Rafael Gomes, and SCAD FASH for their enthusiasm and pioneering vision,” said Ayissi in a statement.
“This exhibition traces the essence of my creative process and will introduce the public to the rich African heritage and culture that inspires my work. I hope that visitors will study and discover the beauty of contemporary and creative Africa,” Ayissi continued.
Incorporating traditional African fabrics, textures, colors, symbols, and styles, Ayissi’s creations challenge the viewer to consider the influence of Africa on global fashion trends and invite us to consider the far-reaching impact of Africa’s ongoing cultural renaissance.
By working with artisans in Africa to curate fabrics, designs, and dyes and then bringing those elements to be constructed in his Coutier in Paris, Ayissi has continued to provide opportunities for celebration of the African diaspora in the world of couture fashion.
Ayissi is also committed to sustainability in fashion, and often utilizes natural materials in his garments. Many of his designs feature hand woven Kente cloth from Ghana, Obom bark cloth from Cameroon, Faso Dan Fani cloth from Burkina Faso, and natural materials such as raffia from Madagascar.
“There’s this question he’s posing – why can’t something that’s recycled also be beautiful?” Ray suggested. Some of Ayissi’s designs incorporate scrap fabric as well, even leaning on traditional quilting techniques such as yo-yo quilting.
While Ayissi is certainly interested in developing and continuing more sustainable resources for his fabric and dye selections, he has not abandoned the glamorous and refined elements of couture design as seen by his incorporation of materials such as Lyon silk. Ayissi continuously pushes forward the notion of African women walking in luxury, which is exemplified by some exhibition choices such as one mannequin’s shiny gold boots.
Garments featuring patchwork near the entrance of Ayissi’s exhibition at SCAD FASH also highlight the role of colonialism in Africa, and represent a sort of reclamation of design elements while reckoning with history. Glamorous quilted maxi skirts inspired by the genocidal regime of Germany over South West Africa from the early 1900s are paired with military-style tops; a nod to the idea of reclamation of culture through couture fashion and design.
Two ensembles inspired by flags include stitched words that further cement the designs as culturally relative to the African experience. One dress design depicts a figure surrounded by leaves and plants that reads “Save the Forest,” while another incorporates sea creatures and the words “Save our Oceans.”
“He’s very tapped into the cultural zeitgeist of what’s happening in Africa,” continued Ray.
When viewing the exhibition it is important to slow down and notice the details, as every element of Ayissi’s designs is thoughtful and considered. Purposeful use of beading traditions inspired by the Bamileke Tribe highlight wealth, while his use of Kapok, a sustainable alternative to cotton, to create a dress featuring voodoo dolls is a play on the Afro-Caribbean contribution to fashion.
Meanwhile, other selections of his works feature designs that are all black or all white, which removes color in order to highlight the craftsmanship and details of his creations. “This subverts the expectations of color associated with Africa,” explained Ray as we walked through the exhibition.
Masterfully blending European and African silhouettes, materials, and aesthetics, Ayissi has built an incredible legacy of couture that embraces and invites conversation around Africa’s influence on global fashion and design.
The exhibition at SCAD FASH presents a unique opportunity to view these works in person. Set against the dark walls of the museum, visitors can take their time examining the details and intricacies of his designs in person rather than only viewing them on the pages of a magazine or in motion on the runway.
“Imane Ayissi: From Africa to the World” will remain on view at SCAD FASH through Feb. 23, 2025.
