Table Talk: Bowie meets wine in Sandy Springs
May 12 —Happy Tuesday! Welcome to the table.
In this edition of “Family Meal,” you’ll find my story on a new David Bowie-inspired wine bar headed to Sandy Springs this fall. And I’ll have details on where to catch a preview of the wine bar this month in Buckhead that includes sushi and 1980s tunes on vinyl.
Love pizza paired with a good cocktail and strolls along the Beltline? You need to make a pit stop at Phantom Pizza, now in residence at Burle’s Bar along the Eastside trail. More on that pop-up below.
This week, D’Juan’s New Orleans Bistro in Smyrna offers a recipe for its shrimp po’boy, which includes instructions for making homemade bread and remoulade.
Finally, as we approach the World Cup, I still want to hear from locals on restaurants they would recommend to visitors headed to Atlanta this summer – outside the Downtown soccer fan bubble around the stadium. Send me an email at beth@roughdraftatlanta.com with your suggestions.
Cheers!
🍸 Beth
BOWIE-INSPIRED WINE BAR IN SANDY SPRINGS
🍷 Under Pressure Wine Bar opens this fall at the Fountain Oaks complex in Sandy Springs, just north of Chastain Park.
Owned by sommelier Juan Fernando Cortés (The Chastain, Stanky Wine) and Atlanta restaurateur Adam Berlin (Buena Vida Tapas, Chicheria Mexican Kitchen, Amasa Mexican Kitchen), Under Pressure will feature a wine cellar comprising more than 1,500 bottles, with nearly 20% of its cellar and by-the-glass list dedicated to sparkling wines.
Designed by SOGO Studios, Under Pressure takes over the former Pig-N-Chik BBQ space on Roswell Road. Partially rooted in music, the soundtrack and artwork and concert posters adorning the walls at Under Pressure will create what Cortés and Berlin describe as a “Bowie-inspired vibe.”
“There’s a lot of work to be done yet because we’re keeping very little of the existing space to give it that tucked away feel, since we are in a shopping center,” Berlin told Rough Draft. “We’re adding a big patio facing Roswell Road. We should have our building permit in the next couple of weeks, and if we work quickly, we’d love to open before the holidays.”
What’s in a name
🧑🎤 If you find yourself singing the refrain to the song “Under Pressure,” that’s by design, too. Cortés and Berlin named the wine bar for the 1981 hit single by David Bowie and Queen. The name also references the highly pressurized environment sparkling wine inhabits once bottled, thanks to the high levels of carbon dioxide that produce the signature fizz.
Much like the natural wine pop-ups Cortés and friend and Stanky Wine partner Brad Tolleson hosted at restaurants like Brush and Pure Quill Superette over the years, Under Pressure will lean into its soundtrack. Curated playlists will set the mood for various points in service, from happy hour at 4 p.m. to the height of dinner to winding down with vermouth and dessert at the end of the night.
“We love the song ‘Under Pressure’ and it works with sparkling wine. We’re taking a rock-and-roll approach to this wine bar, similar to how Juan and Brad did at Stanky Wine with hip hop,” said Berlin. “We want Under Pressure to be unpretentious and fun, but with Juan bringing his knowledge and creating a comfortable space to talk about wine without overcomplicating it for people.”
Wine runs deep
🦀 A former commercial crab fisherman in Alaska, Cortés returned to Atlanta and the hospitality industry in the early aughts after being furloughed from a boat he had worked on for three years. Cortés bartended at Pure Taqueria and Bistro VG to make ends meet, before landing at Restaurant Eugene as a server assistant. It was at Eugene where his love for wine took root.
“I asked so many questions because it was one of the few restaurants back then that had a sommelier,” he said. “Then I found Clarke Anderson, who ran a tasting group at no. 246 in Decatur on Monday mornings for industry people and enthusiasts.”
“Clarke ran an open and encouraging environment where anybody could come in and taste,” Cortés explained. “That was like 16 years ago. [Clarke] still runs that same group.”
Cortés credits Anderson and grassroots groups such as those Monday tasting meet-ups in Decatur for laying the groundwork for pop-ups like Stanky Wine and helping give rise to wine bars like Under Pressure.
What to expect
🍾 Look for wines ranging from natural and biodynamic to more traditional styles at Under Pressure, anchored by a variety of sparkling wines and champagnes. Focusing on large-format bottles, which result in higher quality pours due to aging, will provide Under Pressure with a broader selection of by-the-glass options.
Wine takes the front seat at Under Pressure, driving what’s served on the food menu, rather than the other way around, Cortés said. Depending on the week, there could be as many as 20 wines by the glass on the menu, with more than a handful of those wines within the sparkling family.
While Cortés and Berlin have yet to find a chef for Under Pressure, they already know the types of dishes they plan to serve. Expect oysters, caviar service, and savory snacks like French fries, charcuterie, and cheese boards, along with crudo, a Caesar salad, and seasonal dishes.
The wine list will inform what the chef serves each week, which might see some wines showcased as an ingredient in a dish, sauce, or dressing.
“We are on the hunt for a chef right now, one that will go on this adventure with us and possibly partner in Under Pressure,” Berlin said. “These pop-ups will act sort of like a ‘Top Chef’ challenge, making dishes that revolve around these wines.”
Sneak peek
Starting May 14, people can catch a sneak peek of Under Pressure at Brush in Buckhead.
Cortés and Berlin will host four Thursday night pop-ups through June 4 in the main dining room at Brush, with vinyl DJ Capt. Mudfish spinning tunes by Bowie, Queen, and other 1980s music icons.
🍣 While the full Brush sushi menu will be available, owner and chef Jason Liang will also serve special à la carte dishes designed specifically to pair with the wines on offer at the Under Pressure pop-up.
For Cortés, the Brush pop-ups are a return to the original restaurant that gave him and Tolleson the runway to test out a proof of concept in Stanky Wine, serving natural wines set to a soundtrack of “Dirty South” hip hop. It’s also where Cortés and Berlin first met.
“Brush is where I started my wine pop-up career. Jason has always been very supportive and very gracious,” said Cortés. “So when we told him what we were doing, he was like, ‘let’s pop up again together.’”
➡️ Under Pressure Wine Bar, 4920 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. Opening late 2026. Thursday nights with Under Pressure at Brush, May 14 through June 4. Reservations highly encouraged.
Sip, savor, and celebrate!
SPONSORED BY FOOD THAT ROCKS
🥂 Food That Rocks 2026 returns to City Springs on June 4 as Sandy Springs’ all-inclusive tasting event, presented by Taste of Atlanta.
From 6–10 p.m. for VIP entry and starting at 7 p.m. for general admission, guests sample bites from more than 25 neighborhood restaurants alongside craft cocktails, beer, and wine tastings. The under-the-stars evening features live music from Band X, chef meet-and-greets, and interactive sponsor activations.
Celebrating Sandy Springs’ growing culinary scene, the event brings together local favorites and new spots for one high-energy night of food, drinks, and community.
EDITOR’S PICK
🍕 If you find yourself on the Eastside Beltline near New Realm Brewing on a Tuesday or Friday night, I advise stopping by Burle’s Bar for a cocktail and pizza from Phantom Pizza stationed on the patio. Need a bonus incentive? Tuesday nights at Burle’s also features live jazz.
Smaller in size, but similar in style to Neapolitan pizza, Phantom’s pies can easily be eaten by one very hungry person, or shared as a snack with two or three people.
I love a floppy slice, thanks to growing up on New York– and New Haven–style pizzas. However, even fold-and-eat experts like myself fall prey to the occasional nose dive toppings take to the plate before you’re able to cradle them between the fold. Phantom’s crusts strike a happy medium, giving just enough flop to the crispy thin-crust structure of tavern-style pizzas found in the Midwest.
🍅 We ordered the pepperoni, topped with mozzarella and Grana Padano cheese and cup-and-char Spotted Trotter pepperoni ($20). Chunks of tomato in the sauce provide a little burst of tangy sweetness. I’ll have more on my Phantom Pizza experience in this week’s “Rough Cut” on Saturday morning. Follow Rough Draft on Instagram for my first impressions.
RECIPE
🍤 This week, we’re sharing a recipe for the shrimp po’boy from D’Juan’s New Orleans Bistro in Smyrna.
The po’boy’s history is often debated. The sandwich was first affiliated with its name –”po’boy” – in 1929, when Benny and Clovis Martin offered it for free to striking transit union workers in New Orleans.
While the po’boy can be made with a number of proteins, the sandwich is primarily associated with Gulf shrimp.
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